‘Modern cocktail” was how J W Anderson chose to describe his autumn/winter 2016 collection. Really? Does Anderson imagine women would wear his pile-ups of green neoprene frills and furbelows, puffed out like the vocal sacs of a fat, enraged toad, for a quiet soiree? Or was he being provocative, combative and challenging?
I suspect the latter. Anderson enjoys getting people’s hackles up – making us, metaphorically, puff out and frown at his flying-saucer hems and zip-ribbed tunics. We also tut when Anderson pontificates about abstract themes rather than tell us why he decided to show ruffles and where the leaf studding his satin tops originated. I suspect some of that is for effect, to emphasise, perhaps, how ridiculous it is for us all to rush backstage and beg explanation of the whys and wherefores of puff sleeves and puffball skirts. But I also think Anderson is trying to grapple with ambitious ideas to keep his audience interested.
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